Having previously visited Akureyri in November 2024, last month I returned to Iceland, firstly to embark on an expedition cruise with HX Hurtigruten Expeditions, circumnavigating the entire island over the course of a week. This was then followed by some time venturing between Reykjavik, the Golden Circle and the South Coast. My whole Iceland experience has therefore been somewhat unconventional, starting with the lesser-visited northern region before coming back to explore the more renowned sights of the south. Having thoroughly enjoyed my time in the north, I was very much intrigued to discover what the other side of the country has to offer.
Exploring Reykjavik
Njálsgata, Reykjavik
Following the conclusion of the HX cruise (which in itself is a fantastic way to visit parts of Iceland that lie beyond the Ring Road, such as the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and Ísafjörður in the Westfjords) we docked back in Reykjavik, disembarking the ship in the morning, ready to start the second part of our trip.
Our hotel of choice was the Reykjavik Centrum, which, as the name would suggest, is a centrally located hotel on one of Reykjavik’s oldest streets, right in the historic heart of the city. After an early check-in, it was time to start exploring the city, first making an obligatory stop at Brauð & Co. (perhaps the most famous bakery in Reykjavik) for a delicious cinnamon roll before diving into the colourful, art-filled streets.
Frakkastígur, Reykjavik
Although a fairly small city by European standards, there is certainly more than enough to see and do in Reykjavik to easily fill a few days – it really is much more than just a convenient base for excursions further afield. After visiting the iconic Hallgrimskirkja church, Harpa Concert Hall and the famous Skólavörðustígur Rainbow Street, it was time to pick up our car hire. After a quick stop at Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach (which was full of locals basking in the sunshine on this remarkably warm spring day), it was time to head out for a taste of the city’s vibrant bar and restaurant scene, which is full of variety and buzzing with life.
The Golden Circle
Thingvellir National Park
After a hearty buffet breakfast at the hotel, it was time to leave the city behind and drive to the first stop of the Golden Circle, Thingvellir National Park. According to the Satnav this should have only taken us around 50 minutes, however due to the stunning landscapes en route and a particular stretch of road that was so impressive we turned around and drove it again, it took us considerably longer. After all, when you’re exploring somewhere as beautiful as this, why rush?
Thingvellir National Park is the first major stop on the Golden Circle that most people visit, where you can walk along the rift valley at the meeting point of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates and take in fantastic views of the largest lake in Iceland.
Geysir Geothermal Area
After a quick stop in Selfoss for lunch (at the excellent Old Dairy Food Hall) our next stop was Kerid Crater for a short but scenic hike. From here, we continued to one of the best known and most striking parts of the Golden Circle: the Geysir Geothermal Area. Here, the Strokkur geyser spouts water every 8-10 minutes up to 30 metres in the air, which is certainly a captivating sight to behold.
After walking around some of the other hot springs, sulphurous mud pots and steam vents it was time to head to Gullfoss waterfall. Of all the waterfalls I have seen in Iceland, this is certainly up there among the most impressive, mainly due to the immense quantities of water passing through, around 100,000 litres a second plunging 31 metres into the Gullfossgljúfur Canyon, with a rainbow and clouds of spray completing the epic scene.
Gullfoss waterfall
Our sightseeing for the day was over and it was time to head to our hotel for the night. The Hotel Ranga is a fantastic location to base yourself for a few days, being within striking distance of many of the points of interest in the southern part of the country. Here, you can enjoy superb hospitality, delicious food and a calm, peaceful ambience throughout your stay. It may feel like it’s in the middle of nowhere, which is part of the appeal, but it’s perfectly positioned for exploring both the Golden Circle and the South Coast.
The South Coast
Seljalandsfoss waterfall
The next morning was an early start as we had a lot of ground to cover before our flight later in the afternoon, and we were keen to pack in as much as possible on our final day in Iceland. Our first stop was the beautiful Seljalandsfoss waterfall, which you can walk behind, allowing you to get right up close – a very rare experience for waterfalls, not just in Iceland but anywhere around the world.
After drying off from all the spray at Seljalandsfoss, it was only a short drive to our next stop of the day, the Seljavallalaug Swimming Pool. Dating back to 1923, it’s one of the oldest pools in Iceland, tucked away into the side of the mountain. It's certainly one of the most scenic places I’ve gone for a swim and well worth the hike to reach it. Finally, we made our way to Skógafoss, one of the largest waterfalls in Iceland at 25 metres wide and with a 60-metre drop. We didn’t have time to linger long here, but it was another hugely impressive sight.
Seljavallaug Swimming Pool
With only a few hours until our flight and a long journey back to Keflavik Airport, it was time to get back on the road. The scenery did not disappoint, with several smaller waterfalls tumbling down cliff faces, glaciers on the horizon and striking lava formations. It would be remiss of me not to mention the fields dotted with Icelandic horses and sheep which we saw not only on this drive, but throughout our time in Iceland.
Taking the coastal route back to the airport (rather than going through Reykjavik) allowed us to pass through Grindavík, the town which had been heavily affected by the volcanic activity occurring on the Reykjanes Peninsula over the last 18 months. We were able to see just how close some of the recent lava flows had gotten to the town, with the freshly hardened black lava at some points only metres from some houses – an eerie and sobering sight indeed.
Final thoughts
After dropping our hire car off at the airport, we had some time to reflect on our 9-night Icelandic adventure. It truly is a magical country with an extraordinary amount to offer within a relatively concentrated area. Whether you’re travelling by car, on a cruise or just taking day trips from Reykjavik or Akureyri, Iceland really will take your breath away with its epic landscapes, spectacular wildlife, abundant geothermal lagoons and picturesque towns and cities.
