Earlier this month, Best Served Scandinavia specialist Lynn Jordan-Willis, along with several fellow team members, spent several days in Tromso, experiencing the myriad delights of Norway’s Arctic metropolis and its spectacular surroundings in the midst of Polar Night. Below, she shares the highlights of her trip, from seeing the Northern Lights to visiting a Sámi reindeer camp.
Days 1 & 2 – Overnight whale watching cruise & Fjellheisen cable car
Best Served Scandinavia team members in Tromso
After an easy three-and-a-half hour flight from London Heathrow to Tromso with British Airways, we promptly embarked on the first outing of our trip: an overnight cruise to see the Northern Lights and spot whales in the fjords. Although it was Polar Night (the period when the sun doesn’t rise above the horizon in the middle of winter) during our visit, it wasn’t fully dark all day long – instead, there was a prolonged period of twilight for several hours before the true darkness set in.
Unfortunately, on this occasion, the weather conditions weren’t on our side – a blizzard isn’t ideal when you’re looking to see the Northern Lights – but seeing the Norwegian fjords in winter was amazing. And, in the morning, waking up to the sight of whales swimming past our boat was truly spectacular. The coastline was supremely beautiful – and dramatic – while dusted in snow, and it was lovely to sit back and relax while watching the scenery and sipping a hot chocolate. Spotting orcas and humpback whales in their natural environment is an experience not to be missed, and definitely ticked an item off my bucket list.
Cruising along the fjords in winter
The ship itself, MS Quest, is a small expedition vessel suited for exploring these remote coastal regions. While the sea did get a little rough at points, the cabins were perfectly comfortable and the food onboard was delicious – all freshly prepared and sourced from local produce. The guides were excellent, too, providing us with detailed knowledge about the science behind the Northern Lights and the behaviours of the whales we were looking out for.
Once back on dry land, we enjoyed a ride on the Fjellheisen cable car, which takes you right up to the summit of Mount Storsteinen for wonderful views overlooking Tromso. It takes just five minutes or so and is well worth the trip, although best done when the conditions are clear. There’s even a cosy cafe up there where you can enjoy a drink or two before heading back down.
Day 3 – Sámi reindeer experience & Northern Lights
Sámi reindeer camp
We began our third day in Tromso by visiting a Sámi reindeer camp, situated around 45 minutes outside of the city. On arrival, we got to feed and pet the reindeer – such curious, gentle and well-natured creatures. We then headed out on a short sled ride, which was a lot of fun and a great way to take in the Arctic scenery. A hearty hot lunch was then served – a choice of traditional reindeer stew or tomato soup – while we learned all about Sámi culture and its long-standing roots in this region of Norway. We even had the chance to take part in a joik (a traditional form of Sámi singing).
Northern Lights at Camp Tamok
Later in the day, we went snowmobiling at Camp Tamok – a wilderness camp surrounded by snow-capped mountains, not too far from the Finnish border. This was an incredible experience, as a combination of clear skies and favourable solar activity meant the Northern Lights put on a stunning show for us. The guides were keeping a lookout while we ate dinner and the excitement was gradually building to a crescendo when the first auroras appeared in the night sky. We were also shown how to take the best possible pictures on our phones, which was great for someone like myself who doesn’t know much about the intricacies of night time photography.
Day 4 – Malangen Resort & husky sledding
Snowy scenes at Malangen Resort
In the morning, we took a transfer of around 90 minutes to Malangen Resort, which sits on the edge of a fjord that stretches 60 kilometres from the village of Nordfjordboten out to Hekkingen Lighthouse, slicing between the islands of Senja and Kvaloya. On arrival, we enjoyed a quick lunch before heading out on a husky safari. Mushing (the art of driving a husky sled) is a fair bit harder than it looks, but after a while you get the hang of it. Overall, this was a fabulous experience and certainly something I’d recommend.
Dinner at Malangen was a delicious three-course affair, followed by a Northern Lights hunt at Camp Nikka. Again, the weather wasn’t kind to us so the lights weren’t visible, but we weren’t too disappointed given we’d already managed to see them on the previous night. Besides, a lovely campfire and hot chocolate made it an enjoyable evening nonetheless.
Malangen itself really is a beautiful resort, with a great mix of accommodation ranging from standard rooms in the main building to self-contained, sea-facing cabins. We were staying in a premium cabin, which consisted of three spacious bedrooms, an open-plan lounge, a well-equipped kitchen and a dining area. It came with three balconies looking out across the fjord – although these were covered with snow while we were there!
Tromso is a superb destination in its own right, but if you’ve got the time, it’s also definitely worth incorporating a stay at Malangen into your trip for a wilder, more secluded experience surrounded by stunning Norwegian nature.
