Working in travel means I’m lucky enough to experience places I might never otherwise see. But every now and then, a destination does more than simply inspire a personal holiday. That’s exactly what happened after a long weekend in Svalbard with my fiancée in February 2024. We returned home completely captivated by the Arctic and found ourselves asking a simple question: What if we didn’t just visit the north – what if we lived there?
Within weeks, that idea became a plan. By winter, we’d be in Swedish Lapland for six months, working at Brändön Lodge.
Taking the Leap
Turning that dream into reality wasn’t simple. Temporary Swedish work and residency permits came with more paperwork and stress than we anticipated. But when the approvals finally arrived, it hit me – we were actually leaving our normal lives behind. Best Served Scandinavia granted me a sabbatical with the understanding I’d return in spring 2025, and suddenly everything felt real. Just before turning 30, it felt like our last chance to uproot ourselves completely and embrace a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
Entrance to Brändön Lodge
Arriving at Brandon Lodge
Brändön Lodge sits on the edge of the frozen Bothnian Sea, just north of Luleå. The area is a network of islands, forest and glittering ice: quiet, vast, and magically remote. Despite being Sweden’s 25th largest city, Luleå is far from a sleepy outpost. It’s full of great pubs, restaurants, museums and, most memorably, the UNESCO-listed Gammelstad church town, which quickly became a favourite.
I first visited Brändön Lodge in 2022 on a Best Served Scandinavia trip, and even then I was struck by what owner Goran had created. In a region where some lodges have expanded dramatically, Goran has kept Brändön Lodge intentionally intimate: 15 two-bedroom cabins, a welcoming main lodge, and a commitment to authenticity. That simplicity is a key part of the magic.
Charlie snowmobiling with his fiancée
My role at the lodge
Throughout the winter season, the lodge team grows to around 40 people; more than half of them Swedish. Working alongside them gave us a lovely blend of immersion and independence. My responsibilities were centred around hosting: welcoming guests, helping during meal services, checking people in and handling airport transfers.
Our guests mainly came from the UK, France, Belgium and the Netherlands. What I loved most was their attitude – everyone arrived ready to embrace the cold, the culture and the adventure. It made every day rewarding. Living and working at the lodge meant we didn’t just recommend experiences, we lived them. Dogsledding across the frozen sea, snowmobiling through ancient forests and watching the aurora dance above us became part of our routine rather than rare highlights.
The local guides were extraordinary. Their knowledge of the landscape, wildlife, culture and – importantly – the northern lights added so much depth to each excursion. Even familiar activities felt new when you experienced them through their eyes.
Husky sledding in Swedish Lapland
The food: A true highlight
One of the biggest revelations was the food. Brändön Lodge celebrates the flavours of Swedish Lapland with reindeer, moose, arctic char, trout, salmon, herring, cloudberries and lingonberries featured throughout the season. Much of the seafood is smoked and cured on-site during the summer, ready for winter guests. Breakfast and lunch were relaxed buffet-style, while dinner each evening featured a changing two- or three-course menu. The kitchen was also brilliant at accommodating vegetarian and vegan guests – it really is a place where everyone eats well.
Christmas buffet at Brändön Lodge
A life in Luleå
Because many staff lived in Luleå rather than on-site, our social circle quickly grew beyond the lodge team. We joined a weekly two-hour padel session, cheered on the Luleå ice hockey team as they won the Swedish League, discovered local restaurants and settled into our temporary home in the village of Altersund.
Even the everyday moments like driving on quiet, snowy roads, shovelling fresh snow to reach the front door, or popping to the supermarket after work helped us feel like locals, not seasonal workers. That sense of belonging was something I didn’t expect, but it shaped the whole experience.
Charlie's cabin home near Brändön Lodge
A winter I’ll never forget
Our six months in Swedish Lapland were, without question, the best of our lives. We’ve talked endlessly about it since returning to the UK, and I don’t think we’ll stop any time soon. Brändön Lodge is somewhere I now recommend wholeheartedly, not just as a travel consultant, but as someone who has lived and breathed it.
It’s the perfect place for anyone who wants an intimate, authentic Arctic experience with warm hospitality, passionate local people, incredible food, and a landscape that stays with you long after you leave. Whether it’s your first time in Scandinavia or your tenth, Brändön Lodge welcomes you like family. And if you’re anything like me, you’ll leave with your heart full and already dreaming of returning.
Northern Lights from Brändön Lodge
