Last week, I returned from a trip to Trøndelag – a region of Norway that often goes under the radar in comparison to the western fjords and the far north, but one that has a great deal to offer in the way of beautiful nature, wonderful food and rich history and culture. Trøndelag is located right in the centre of the country, and I had the opportunity to explore its main city, Trondheim, as well as The Golden Road – a route that links artisanal food producers, breweries and cultural landmarks on the Inderøy peninsula. We were extremely fortunate to be blessed with temperatures of 20°C and blue skies every day, which only made the surroundings appear even more stunning. I also spent a night in Oslo, a city which has transformed quite significantly in recent years. It was here, in the capital, that my journey began.
A flying visit to Oslo
She Lies - a steel and glass sculpture in Oslo's harbour
I flew from the UK directly to Oslo and took the Flytoget airport express train straight into the city centre – it’s a super-efficient service, taking just 19 minutes from the airport to the central train station. I was keen to make the most of my 24 hours in Oslo as it had been quite a while since my last visit, and I was hugely impressed by how the city has evolved in that time.
Its charm is perhaps a little more understated relative to the neighbouring Scandinavian capitals – it doesn’t have the postcard-worthy canals of Copenhagen or the beautifully preserved medieval old town of Stockholm – but Oslo has really come into its own in recent years. The waterfront districts of Aker Brygge and Bjørvika are packed with striking modern architecture and buzzing bars and restaurants, while the eyecatching MUNCH Museum (dedicated to the work of the famous Norwegian artist, Edvard Munch) is another fantastic addition.
Sommerro
Oslo is a very walkable city and has excellent access to nature; you can hop on a public ferry to visit the islands in the Oslo Fjord, take the metro and go hiking among the nearby lakes and forests, or even take a dip in the fjord from one of the many urban swimming spots. There are a couple of floating sauna complexes, too – a perfect way to relax when you fancy taking a break from sightseeing.
As part of my explorations, I scoped out a few hotels, starting at Sommerro, an Art Deco-style property in the upscale Frogner neighbourhood. This is regarded as one of the top hotels in Oslo, with several gourmet restaurants and state-of-the-art spa facilities. The following morning I enjoyed a superb breakfast at the stylish Amerikalinjen, which is well known for its jazz nights and artisan cocktails. It also has an interesting backstory as the building was originally the headquarters of Norwegian America Line shipping company. It’s right next to the central train station and can’t be beaten for location. I also looked around the Thon Hotel Opera which is a good choice for a comfortable four-star hotel, also conveniently positioned right next to the central station.
Exploring Trondheim, capital of the Trøndelag region
Colourful wharves on the Nidelva River in Trondheim
After my brief stay in Oslo, I took a remarkably quick 50-minute flight north to Trondheim – Norway’s third largest city and former Viking capital, situated at the confluence between the Nidelva River and the Trondheim Fjord. It’s home to Norway’s largest university and, as such, it has a lively, youthful energy about it. We stayed at the Britannia Hotel, Trondheim’s standout hotel, which houses an elegant dining hall, a fabulous spa and its own Michelin-star restaurant (Speilsalen).
After setting into our luxurious accommodation, we visited the iconic Nidaros Cathedral (the world’s northernmost Gothic cathedral, dating back to the 11th century), checked out the PoMo art museum (which currently houses a Picasso exhibition) and enjoyed a hike on the historic Pilgrim’s Route (also known as the St. Olav Ways), ending our tour at a delightful waterfront restaurant.
Delicious beer and snacks at Klostergården Tautra
Trondheim is one of the best foodie destinations in Norway, with an abundance of terrific restaurants and craft breweries to choose from. It’s filled with colourful wooden buildings that provide endless photo opportunities, particularly on the stretch of the Nidelva River around the Old Town Bridge (Gamle Bybro), which connects the main city centre with the charming Bakklandet neighbourhood. Speaking of which, the Scandic Bakklandet is an ideal place to stay if the Britannia Hotel falls outside of your budget.
My favourite experience in Trondheim was taking a RIB boat out to Munkholmen island, then on to the island of Tautra, which is home to the remains of a 13th-century Cistercian monastery. Tautra is also a popular birdwatching spot, with thousands of sea birds and eider ducks nesting and breeding in spring and summer. Here we visited Klostergården Tautra, where we were treated to fantastic food, great beer and magnificent views of the fjord.
Rural Trøndelag and The Golden Road
Apple orchard at Inderøy Gårdsbryggeri
After a couple of nights in Trondheim, we left the city behind to explore the countryside of Trøndelag and, more specifically, The Golden Road – a collection of around 20 small-scale, sustainable food producers and cultural landmarks. One of the top culinary destinations in the country, it lies around an hour-and-a-half’s drive outside of Trondheim.
Most of the food destinations along The Golden Road offer tastings; we visited Gangstad Gårdsysteri and partook in a cheese and ice cream tasting (heavy on the dairy, but delicious). We also stopped by Inderøy Gårdsbryggeri for apple juice, and Jegtvolden Fjordhotel, which offers beautiful views and excellent food. The latter would be a lovely place to stay, and I’d recommend booking an upgraded room with a fjord view. They are also working on adding a sauna in the garden for next year. Another of the highlights in this area was Stiklestad, where you can visit a medieval era farm, a Folk Museum and a Viking longhouse.
Northern Lights captured from Oyna Landscape Hotel (Credit: Stine Teigen/Explore Trøndelag)
Our home for the final night of the trip was Oyna Landscape Hotel, which turned out to be my favourite hotel of the trip – I really loved its relaxed, welcoming vibe and the way it felt fully integrated in the landscape. It consists of a series of stylish turf-roofed, timber-clad buildings nestled on the side of a hill with spectacular views down to the fjord. The hotel offers all kinds of outdoor activities including kayaking, cycling and hiking, while the food is seasonal and sustainably sourced from local producers. Just to cap things off, we were even fortunate enough to see the Northern Lights here on our final evening – it just goes to show you don’t always need to go to the Arctic to catch a glimpse of the aurora!
In summary
Oyna Landscape Hotel
Overall, I had a fantastic trip in Trøndelag, and I would certainly recommend it to anyone looking to explore a part of Norway that’s a little off the beaten track. The warm, sunny conditions certainly enhanced our experience, but even if the weather isn't so great, you would never be short of things to see and do. It’s a perfect destination for a mix of nature, history, culture and gastronomy, and you can easily pair a city stay in Trondheim with a rural retreat in the region’s beautiful countryside. My suggestion would be to finish your trip with a night or two at Oyna Landscape Hotel – it really is a special place to round off an adventure.
