It’s difficult to overstate the sheer scale of Lake Saimaa, Finland’s largest lake. It covers an area of around 4,400 km² (bigger than some European countries) and includes 13,710 islands. Earlier this month, I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the region on a trip to celebrate its newly awarded status of European Region of Gastronomy 2024, staying in some fabulous accommodation and enjoying a whole host of culinary delights throughout. These were among the highlights of my experience…
Tertti Manor
Tertti Manor
Our first stop was at Tertti Manor, just outside the city of Mikkeli. This authentic, family-owned manor and farmhouse is home to a restaurant which has been named as one of the top 50 restaurants in Finland – and it’s easy to see why. The relaxed ambience belies the seriousness with which the chef approaches his unique menu, with a strong emphasis on produce from the manor’s gardens and local producers.
We enjoyed a fine dining experience featuring the likes of trout ceviche, beef tartare with homemade truffle aioli, pheasant with morel mushrooms and rhubarb ravioli with herb sorbet. All of it was melt-in-the-mouth gorgeous and complemented by excellent wines, including locally produced rose petal sparkling wine. This was a delightful surprise and a reflection of true Finnish hospitality; understated, but simultaneously managing to over-deliver. There’s also a garden cafe on-site if you’re a little short on time, or you can take something home from the deli store.
Sahanlahti Resort – Elsanranta Villas
Elsanranta Villas
This is a perfect spot for the kind of holiday that Finns themselves enjoy. The resort is based around a former sawmill dating back to 1765, and features a mix of accommodation which strikes a fine balance between homely and authentic. I particularly recommend staying at the new Elsanranta Villas, just a short walk from the main building. With floor-to-ceiling windows, these contemporary villas offer wonderful views overlooking the lake – so much so that I didn’t want to draw the curtains. I loved the private deck, hot tub and sauna, and the fact you can easily row or cycle to the restaurant, which serves a delicious and plentiful buffet breakfast including ‘muikku’, a small white fish found throughout the Lake Saimaa region.
Muikku fish
Sitting in a rocking chair first thing in the morning with a cup of coffee while listening to the sound of cuckoos in the trees and gazing out across the lake, I could appreciate exactly why Finland consistently ranks as the world’s happiest country. On weekends in the summer months, you can also experience the charm of Restaurant Rantamakasiini. We were fortunate enough to enjoy an early mid-summer celebration and a meal with meats sourced from the local butcher and vegetables from the Sahanlahti gardens. This autumn, they are collaborating with the Michelin-starred Helsinki restaurant, Finnjävel, with a four-day pop-up event from 11-14 September.
Looking for the Saimaa Ringed Seal
Ecoboat Tours, Lake Saimaa
Lake Saimaa is home to the Saimaa Ringed Seal, one of the world’s rarest seal species, with an estimated population of around 400 left in the wild. These seals have been living in isolation from other seals since the end of the last Ice Age, when the melting of the ice separated Lake Saimaa from what is now the Baltic Sea. Hoping to see one, we joined Ecoboat Tours, whose people are passionate about their craft and the seals. Despite the captain’s best efforts (and plenty of interesting stories along the way), I unfortunately didn’t manage to spot one of the elusive seals on this occasion, but we did see an osprey’s nest with three youngsters in it. We enjoyed the beautiful scenery, coupled with a delightful homemade bun, which meant the two hours flew by.
Birch twig bunch & Karelian Pie making
Traditional Karelian pies
Here, on a small island near Puumala, we were invited into a traditional family home. The lunchtime restaurant trade was busy with those looking to try the delicious salmon and potato soup. We were then shown how to make a traditional birch twig bunch for the sauna later and we spent a fun hour in the kitchen learning how to make Karelian pies (a thin rye crust pastry stuffed with creamy rice and topped with buttered eggs) from a recipe handed down for generations. Finns have a reputation for being a little reserved and not the chattiest, but I haven’t experienced any of that in the slightest. Everyone we met was incredibly warm, friendly and eager to show off their heritage.
Savonlinna
Olavinlinna Castle, Savonlinna
We only had a short lunch stop at Olavinlinna Castle, which is mightily impressive. Being in such a strategic spot since the 15th century, the walls simply ooze history and grandeur. It’s also famous for hosting the Savonlinna Opera Festival, which was one of the world’s first and has been celebrated for over 100 years. It’s certainly a jewel in Lake Saimaa’s crown.
A trip on the lake from here is a must and our one to Putkisalo Manor demonstrated the sheer scale of Lake Saimaa. This is where we had one of the best food experiences. After a tour of the grounds, D.O. Saimaa-chef Ilkka Arvola presented us with a menu totally sourced from the nearby nature, featuring nettle soup and sticky bread, a divine roast lamb dish and a mouthwatering take on rhubarb. The flavours extracted from such simple ingredients, crafted into such visual delights, was remarkable. Chef Ilkka’s team offers seasonal sustainable, wild food experiences year-round, and I am delighted that their experiences are included in our own Lake Saimaa Gastronomy Tour.
Kuru Resort
Kuru Resort
Our final stop was at Kuru Resort. Only opened in 2023, this is a destination property and one I would happily set up home in for a week or more. It's designed as an adults-only resort focusing on all things wellness, relaxation and quality culinary experiences. All these elements are in the Finnish DNA, and we found it incredibly enticing. The villas are dotted amongst the forest; some are stand-alone, others in apartment style, but clever design means that your privacy is not compromised. You have your own sauna – again cleverly designed so that the nature is still in full view – a stand-alone bath, and a balcony with swinging chairs, where you can enjoy reading a book with your coffee as you listen to the wind in the trees. Breakfast is delivered daily to your room, and is followed by the first complimentary wellness class of the day. You might also be tempted to book the hot tub, indulge in a spa experience, or enjoy a lakeside sauna and swim. Savour delicious cuisine at Solitary restaurant, which only serves seasonal, locally sourced products.
Top tips
- If you are extending your trip with a stay in Helsinki at either end (highly recommended), then consider taking the train to Mikkeli and picking up a hire car there.
- Take the time to stop, listen and absorb your surroundings. Breathe in that clear air and appreciate the tranquil nature that surrounds you.
- Luxury comes in many different forms. For those seeking authentic cuisine, unique cultural experiences and the best of Finnish nature, then this is an ideal trip.
- Finland really is a driver's dream. The roads are smooth, easy to navigate, and there’s very little traffic anywhere.
